The saying goes, The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward.
Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water.
From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008, Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today.
Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary, The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way.
Includes forewords by Rob Machado and The Surfer's Journal founder Steve Pezman.
The biggest, most comprehensive, reference guide to the waves on Planet Surf
The World Stormrider Surf Guide explores every dynamic surf zone known to man, from world-famous beaches to obscure reefs on the fringes of the known surf world. With completely revised and updated text, as well as painstakingly researched maps, this mammoth book is the largest collection of surf-spot information ever compiled. Each zone includes detailed analysis of the surf spots and swell forecasting, plus the lowdown on when to go, weather, accommodations, food, culture, hazards, the local scene and much more. A unique set of symbols and statistics make vital surf information instantly accessible. As an added bonus, The World Stormrider Surf Guide includes a global gallery of professional surf photographs. With over 260 detailed maps and 600 superb photos, this mammoth book is an essential tool and the ultimate surf travel resource for all globe-trotting waveriders.
Surf Tribe has been exhibited in Knokke-Heist (Belgium), Kunsthal Rotterdam (Netherlands), Gallery Kahmann Amsterdam (Netherlands). The next exhibition will be in June 2019 in France. If you are interested in the stories behind the book, go to: www.surftribe.be
The women of Surf Life are strong, independent, and resilient--incredible surfers who live, work, and create on the coast. They are connected to their community and well-respected in their fields.
Surf Life interviews twenty-eight women, spanning from Tasmania to Noosa. It features famous surfers, including longboard champion and environmental activist Belinda Baggs; professional surfer Lucy Small, cocreator of the Equal Pay for Equal Play campaign; and popular surfing podcaster Lauren Hill. Here you'll learn about their lives by the sea, their experiences learning to surf, how surfing influences their creative processes, advice to new surfers, and what they fear about surfing (no, it's not just sharks). Surf Life also explores the relationship between motherhood and surfing: to surf or not surf while pregnant, the desire for your children to surf with you, the bonding that it can bring, and the long car rides.
With stunning photography and in-depth interviews, Surf Life showcases these women's creativity and coastal lifestyle. It offers inspiration and escapism for those living in cities, dreaming of crashing waves and blue skies, and is perfect for those who have taken up surfing and love being in the water.
Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us on a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world. Meditating on one of nature's greatest elements - its salty swells, flow and peaks - he shares life lessons in mindfulness that will be relished by surfer and non-surfer alike.
Explore the world's most thrilling waves with Epic Surf Breaks of the World. From Namibia's wind-swept Skeleton Bay to Java's G-Land, discover the best place to 'hang ten', whatever your surfing ability. Accompanied by a series of stunning photographs, maps and beautiful illustrations as well as first-person stories from surf writers all across the globe, including Pulitzer Prize winner William Finnegan, this is the quintessential guide for surfers looking for their next epic break.
With 200 destinations, from Australia's Bells Beach to the coral-flecked islands of the Maldives, you're sure to find your perfect break in this 328-page, hardcover book. Plus, we take you to some of the most adrenaline-pumping breaks in the world, including Tahiti's Teahupoo and Mexico's Puerto Escondido, as well as easier options for beginners, such as Taghazout in Morocco, meaning all abilities are catered for. We cover the planet's newest hotspots, such as Bundoran in Ireland, where world-class waves now lure surfers from all across the globe.
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An exciting and entertaining new book, 100 Foot Wave: Kingdom of Hawaii, has recently been made available, enabling all surfing fanatics and landlubbers alike to climb into the psyche of death-defying giant wave riders and their relentless ambition to surf the largest waves Earth's oceans can spawn.
Authored by twin brothers Milton and Michael Willis, themselves balls-to-the-wall giant wave riders, 100 Foot Wave: Kingdom of Hawaii, delves deep into what drives men to risk their lives for the thrill of surfing perhaps the largest waves ever attempted.
Chapter by thrilling chapter, the Willis Bros take you through not only their personal development in becoming giant wave riders, they cover the history, culture and unique art of those that embrace this extreme sport, as well as big wave surfing legends Laird Hamilton, Buzzy Kerbox, Garrett McNamara, Ken Bradshaw, Ace Cool, Mark Foo, Peter Mel, and Taylor Knox, to name a few.
As you read on, you will learn about heart-clutching big wave wipeouts that reside in the House of Pain; surviving treacherous rip currents in churning seas, and the dramatic Code Black Waimea Bay rescue of Titi Kinimaka by Carl Palmer and Michael Willis.
Of course, none of these extreme big wave surfers could even dream of paddling out in such conditions without the physical and mental training it takes to ride these fast moving, monster walls of water. The Willis Bros address this most critical subject in the chapter Now, Mind/Body, Body/Mind Unification. Whether you aspire to become an extreme big wave surfer or stoked just to cruise small beachbreaks, there is great value in absorbing the information offered here.
Published by The Surfing Authority and dubbed the Iliad, the Odyssey, and the Bible all rolled into one, 100 Foot Wave: Kingdom of Hawaii was written by the Willis Bros in the true Spirit of Aloha, resulting in an important and classic literary contribution to the world of surfing. Thus far, rave reviews have come pouring in from across the planet, validating the Willis Bros hard work in putting this book together.
A colorful, insider portrait of '70s surf culture, with a foreword by Pulitzer Prize-winning author William Finnegan
If you were there, even just for some of it--Hawaii, California, surfing, the '70s--the memories and stories will flow freely from these photographs. Jeff Divine was there for all of it, and these images have been culled from an enormous personal archive. Divine was shooting for Surfer, the monthly magazine that was the bible of the scene. His photos from this archive show the precommercialized era in surfing when the hippie influence still held sway. Surfers had their own slang-infused language and were deep into a world of Mother Ocean, wilderness and a culture that mainstream society spurned. Surfboards were handmade in family garages, often made for a specific kind of wave or speed, for paddling, ease of turning, and featured all kinds of psychedelic designs. Some were even hollowed out to smuggle hash from Morocco.
The color and black-and-white photographs collected here, taken throughout California on the coastlines at Baja, Dana Point, Laguna Beach, La Jolla, Malibu, San Clemente and Oahu, give a vivid image of this close-knit culture and the incredible athletic feats of its heroes and heroines. Raised in La Jolla, California, Jeff Divine (born 1950) started photographing the surfing world in 1966. He held jobs as photo editor for 35 years with Surfer magazine and Surfer's Journal. His works have been displayed worldwide in museums and galleries, as well as in books, magazines and media. In 2019 he was inducted into the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame for his contribution to surf culture in a career lasting 50 years.